Preparation and evaluation of caffeine bioadhesive emulgels for cosmetic applications based on formulation design using QbD tools.

OBJECTIVE

The aim of the present study was to evaluate the influence of the incorporation of caffeine as a model active ingredient on the quality attributes of a bioadhesive emulgel formulation previously optimized by Quality by Design (QbD) tools. Emulgels are emerging topical drug delivery systems for cosmetic or pharmaceutical uses, which combine the advantages of both emulsions and gels.

METHODS

In this work, the observed and predicted values for spreadability, phase separation by centrifugation and detachment forces performed by texturometer were compared with those of the control and active-containing emulgel formulations. In addition, rheological properties, release of caffeine and comparative in vitro/ex vivo bioadhesion properties were evaluated using human skin.

RESULTS

The flow curves of emulgel formulations showed the typical pseudoplastic and no thixotropic flow with yield stress. The incorporation of active ingredient did not produce significant changes. All emulgels were uniformly spread and no significant differences in spreadability values between control and caffeine containing formulations and neither respect to those predicted values from experimental design optimization were found. Emulgel formulations showed appropriate detachment forces values and no significant differences between caffeine loading and control emulgel formulations were observed.

CONCLUSION

Caffeine was successfully vehiculized in this optimized bioadhesive emulgel formulation, which showed high robustness regarding the process variability. There were no significant changes in the critical quality attributes after the incorporation of the active ingredient and a promising stability was observed for at least one year. Results suggested that the optimized emulgel is an interesting topical biodhesive delivery system for cosmetic applications, including agents for skin conditioning, not present in gels formulations.

© 2020 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie.