Effect of a botanical cleansing lotion on skin sebum and erythema of the face: A randomized controlled blinded half-side comparison.

Natalja Weber, Kay Schwabe, Christoph M Schempp, Ute Wölfle

Journal: Journal of cosmetic dermatology 2019;18(3):821-826

PMID: 30022595

Abstract

BACKGROUND

Elevated levels of skin sebum are associated with the growth of Propionibacterium acnes. Intensive degreasing of the skin reduces Propionibacterium acnes but also may cause skin irritation.

AIMS

We assessed the degreasing effect and skin tolerability of a botanical face cleanser with hops and willow bark extract and disodium cocoyl glutamate as mild cleansing agent compared to a standard face cleanser with sodium laureth sulfate (SLES).

MATERIALS AND METHODS

A total of 21 healthy volunteers with normal to oily skin were enrolled in this study. Both cleansers were applied twice a day on the left or right side of the forehead for 15 days in a standardized manner. Bioengineering measurements were performed on day 8 and 15 and on day 17 after an application break of 48 hours. The sebum level was determined using a Sebumeter , and skin redness was measured using a Mexameter .

RESULTS

The botanical face cleanser significantly reduced the sebum level (P < .01) in the test area on day 17. The SLES containing cleanser showed a statistically relevant degreasing effect already on day 15, but after the application break the sebum level increased again on day 17. None of the cleansers caused skin irritation as determined by skin redness measurements.

CONCLUSIONS

In contrast to the SLES containing cleanser, the botanical skin cleanser with hops and willow bark extract had a continuous degreasing effect without reactive seborrhoe after the treatment break. Skin cleansing without SLES might be advantageous for sensitive skin.

© 2018 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.

Address: Department of Dermatology, Research Center skinitial, University Medical Center, Freiburg, Germany.; BSI-Beauty Science Intelligence GmbH, Langenhagen, Germany.

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